Lovely Pinangat

I have never been a lover of vegetables and I have my mother to attest to that. Childhood memories of watering down ampalaya with lost of water during mealtimes when we were not allowed to leave the table without munching down the de riguer greens in our plates comes to mind.

Yet, there was something about this dish that had me at first bite (apologies to whatever uhhm, similarities to other original lines). It threw all my preconceived notions of veggies as bitter greens that are necessary inconveniences to our food life out the window. Oh, there are a few exceptions, I do like the fresh lumpia and ginisang monggo of my dear Mama and Lola but my relationships with these dishes are lukewarm at best. Not for this gata (coconut milk) based specialty of Catarman, Northern Samar. It is just as hot as the food itself and had me stalking (literally) the small carenderia near our home that offered the best version in town for me to grab it ahead of waiting customers. Its sold out in a matter of hours, nay minutes. While there are pretenders, this one is the genuine deal as its cook is a true-blue Catarmanon.

What am raving about? Well its no other than the pinangat, a vegetable dish wrapped in gabi leaves and smothered/cooked in coconut milk. Its spicy hot but that does not deter me from savoring what seems to be its successful mixture of bitter, sweet and salty zing.

I'm not a food writer and honestly, I'm no mean cook but I can write "tasty", "delicious", "addicting" in a sentence and say it with much passion and fervor just to convey how much this dish has got me hooked.

Actually, there is the pinangat of Bicol, but yet, I still say this is better. Finally, now I know why some friends I know always ask this as pasalubong when someone visits the town of Catarman.

The Fresh Bounty of the Sea that is GUIUAN

The imposing wooden doors of a centuries-old church in Guiuan, Eastern Samar

San Antonio de Padua Church in Sulangan, Guiuan, E. Samar

Souvenir shops in front of the church

The waves of Calico-an

Tilang, a shellfish we had for dinner, still alive and its shell

Where some of us stayed

The entrance

The homey living area of La Luna

The balcony just outside the rooms

Dried eel reputed to be an aphrodisiac@P800/kg

The grounds of Banago Resort

The early morning view of Leyte Gulf from the balcony

I recently went to the island of Sulangan which is part of the town of Guiuan, Eastern Samar. It is there where the pilgrim church of San Antonio de Padua is located. The saint is known for his intercession to many a pilgrims who endure the 3 hour ride from Tacloban City. This was my third trip to the island, however, whereas my previous ones were all day trips, this time I stayed for two whole days and got to savour so many things that the island and Guiuan had to offer.

Being surrounded by the sea in all three sides, Guiuan and its outlying island barangays are blessed with so much of its bounty. Indeed it must be, that on the day God decided to distribute the treasures of the ocean, Guiuan must have standing in front of the line. Aside from the freshest catch, here you see the majestic beauty of the waves of the Pacific ocean making it the rising surf capital of Eastern Visayas.

This is one place where you get your fill of shells,eels, fish, crabs, and prawns of all shapes and sizes. During our first night, a repast of sea food dishes greeted us which included ginata-an na tilang, a shell which I saw and tasted for the first time. Really yummy. We also had raw oysters in vinegar and coconut milk, sweet fish kinilaw and crabs in gata all fresh from the sea.

We stayed at the Banago Resort and La Luna beach resort, owned by an American-Filipino and Italian-Filipino couples, respectively. Banago had six rooms all in one big house with amenities such as a shower, air conditioning and cable TV. But its biggest selling point is the beachfront on the Leyte gulf side of the island which stood just a few meters away. You could dine al fresco under the stars, which we did, with coral sands at your feet. On the other hand, La Luna Resort had a more "beachy" native design and was much smaller in scale yet with just as many rooms. It was also near the beach and had a bar and a few tables lying about the beachfront. Really, work in this surroundings hardly makes it so.

Getting to Guiuan one can take the vans for hire for the 3 hour trip from Tacloban City. It takes another 30 to 40 minutes to get to Sulangan from Guiuan. For those unwilling to endure the long land trip, there is a weekly flight from Cebu to Guiuan and vise-versa.

Constant Companions

My loot of books

I am without a doubt a lover of books. I said so as much when I entered an article in a writing contest in a national daily for which I got a gift certificate to a book chain. In my much younger years I would read almost everyday and for the better part of it to boot. I would get lost in the world of of the written word and come up only for air and for nourishment (Of course I exaggerate).

But in the daily grind of everyday living my reading habit has been reduced to a once in a month frequency. Such a far cry during my childhood and post adolescent years when a book a day was common stance.

Now as before, it is still suspense thrillers, mystery novels and basic whodunits that fill my reading fare. Owing to the limited time I have to browse and buy, I've narrowed my list to the three which are my favorites: Dame Agatha Christie, Mary Higgins Clark and John Grisham. In that particular order.

Ms. Christie never fails to whirl me in and so far I have read almost all of her novels. The same is true for Ms. Clark, however, it is the former who to my mind is more brilliant with her perfect characterizations and mood settings. As you go through her books you feel that her characters are so real you start to picture them. The plot itself is astounding, with enough twists and turns that keep you guessing till the end. Yet what lends distinction to her tomes is the uncanny way that Ms. Christie re-creates everything, from the mood, the place to the characters in a way that comes so alive to the reader. In my eyes, she is till unsurpassed and decades after her death I still has to see an equal.

Sunzibar, Mexican Resto in the City

Nachos

The "melt-in-your-mouth" ribs with rum sauce

They say in the food business and all other businesses for that matter location is the one of the keys to success. Which explains the exodus of most food establishment to the Mall that has sprung up in the city three years ago. I agree, but add, such is not always the case. My theory is this: once a joint has established its loyal clientele and firmly ensconced its reputation as a provider of good food at reasonable prices, it becomes immune to the real estate shifts. Customers keep coming back, never mind that its location has become almost like a ghost town. Such is the case of the restaurant my friends from high school and law school and I paid a visit to last night.

It had been almost two years since I've last been to Sunzibar, the restaurant ran by the family of award-winning writer-visual artist Merlie Alunan on Burgos St.. I discovered that it had already moved next door to a much bigger location but still it had retained its quaint ambiance of a casual Mexican dining resto. When we got inside last Tuesday night, the place had only a few diners but a short while later it became full to the brim, i.e. all tables were taken. Obviously, the move was made to accommodate a bigger crowd and that night it was a mix of families, couples, barkadas and even solitary figures.

There were only a few noticeable changes such as the new brighter interior painting and a wooden double door carved in an interesting design. It welcomed you to cream colored wooden stools and tables. The interiors are still very much laid back and bears witness to the streak of artistry than runs in the family of its owners. The children of Ms. Alunan are visual artists and this is evident in the wall paintings that adorn the place. The painting of the Madonna done in semi-abstract on the right side wall when you enter the restaurant is one of the things that catches your eye. Yes, its paintings galore as the place doubles as a gallery for the pieces of the Alunan-Wenceslao brood.

But of course, all these are but supporting cast to what is truly the star of the show, the FOOD. Their nachos are divine and so are their rice dishes. Last night, we had the crowd favorite. "Beef rum ribs" good for two". The price of Php345.00 which already includes rice, two raspberry iced tea and salad is more than reasonable, its a steal. The ribs are indeed melt in your mouth and has a sweet aftertaste. I was kinda wary of ordering it as I would share it with a friend who share the same waistline as mine. But for two "healthy" and robust ones likes us, there were still some left.

Capped with fine conversation that centered on the ongoing impeachment trial of the Chief Justice and the very much in the news wrangling over the remains of a former presidential brother-in-law between live-in lover and "I am the legal wife" woman who goes by the names Grace and Aleli, respectively, it was a much relaxing evening indeed.

2012, Year of the Dragon..Welcome...

Before anything else, let me greet each and everyone a very Happy New Year. Let me also express me thanks to my small (actually very small) group of readers for continuing to take the time to make comments on my posts. You all make my day everytime I open this blog, but, I regret I have again been very negligent. Despite a 2011 New Year's resolution to post more, just like other resolutions, its been broken. I have been just quite taken with other pursuits that have demanded much of my time one such pursuit being taking care of my second child.

So I make again a resolution to be more active in this blog, hopefully I get to keep it.

So on to other things. A look at the year that was and hopes and expectations of the year that is 2012.

I would say I had a much better time in 2011 than in 2010. Much of course was due to a more optimistic mindset and enlightened view of looking at my blessings more than what I still hoped to have.

Our baby E_ _ was born amidst a medical emergency that almost threatened my life. She was two weeks premature but thanks to a very competent OB-GYNE and pediatrician, Dr. A and Dr. C, both mother and baby came out fine. Despite coming out earlier than expected, E_ _ was quite big and occupied the whole of the incubator. You never would have thought she was born premature.

Prior to delivery via Caesarian section, I was quite apprehensive, worried as I was about her under-developed lungs. This despite the fact that I had been taking medicines to fast track E_ _'s breathing sacs. Hearing her cry out loud when she was taken out of my womb was the sweetest things I ever heard as it told me everything was alright with her, at least as far as her breathing was concerned.

It was also last year that slowly our home started to "take shape". The balustrade and bannister were added to the stairs and rooms in the second floor were put up. A garden laboriously set up by the hubby added some beauty to a house that had been years in the making. It felt good to hear the nice comments from visitors and while a lot has still to be done, am quite satisfied of our home sweet home.

B_ _ also added to my joys as she made it to the top ten in all four sections of her grade in school.

And of course, the best news of all, I lost ten pounds!!!! Hahaha. Which, the holidays have me getting it back again.

It was also the year of lost and renewed friendships. I learned that nothing is gained by too much pride and nothing is lost when you understand, forgive as well as accept that you made a mistake too.

So this 2012, I know not to expect too much but just hope for the best. To widen my understanding and be more tolerant of other's shortcomings because I know I myself have plenty of them too. To be more patient because He has a grand plan for all of us and we just need to wait..

My Kalanggaman

The rates


Snorkeling time


The kiosks


The disappearing sand bar


A view from the our approaching banca

White, fine, powdery sand, clear blue waters and palm trees that waved in the softly blowing wind. These scene stood out in my friends' Facebook pictures and I knew i just had to go and see for myself this island paradise that had remained unknown until social networking and word-of-mouth plucked it from relative obscurity. Until then, the island was mostly frequented by locals who selfishly kept this treasure to themselves. But this beauty of a place could not stay hidden for long. Soon most everyone in Eastern Visayas were braving the 45 minute boat trip from Palompon, Leyte to splash in its waters and take numeous pictures that soon got posted on the Internet contributing to its growing fame.

And so it was that I added another title to my cap, from lawyer, public servant, wannabe writer, and blogger I became an instant tour organizer. It was out of necessity as the hubby adamantly refused to accompany me and my family was not so interested to take a trip to Kalanggaman Islet anywhere in the near foreseeable future. That left me with people from the office. I had to drum up the interest of enough office mates to make an excursion worth my organizing self. And I did. There were 17 of us who signed up including 3 young German volunteers who were just so excited after seeing pictures of the place on the Net.

We encircled a date that ran smack into a brewing typhoon. Luckily for us it was way up north where we here in the south could hardly feel its effects except for occasional winds that ruffled trees. The night before we were still unsure if the trip would push through. The breeze was getting stronger. We texted each other and we all agreed we will wait till morning to decide.

Come 4 a.m. and the weather seemed fine.It was definitely a go.

We left Tacloban for Palompon at about 5:45 a.m. and reached the town's outskirts at about quarter to eight in the morning. We then went straight to the Palompon eco-tourism office which managed all trips to the island. There we met the amiable Cristopher whom I had made arrangements and reservations with for our transport to the island days earlier on the phone. He received our entrance fees and led us to the boat we were to ride which to our our dismay was too small for comfort. Too late to realize that after we had already given up our reserved bigger boat to a larger group after supplications from Cristopher. Anyway, small boat or not, we were determined to go and chalked up our now regretted moment of generosity to experience.

The waters were so calm during the 45 minute trip from Palompon to Kalanggaman itself and we entrirely forgot about the typhoon that made landfall somewhere in Cagayan Valley. We would rudely be reminded of its presence some hours later. Soon the island came into view and we were not disappointed. It exceeeded our expectations and we were full of "ohs" and "ahs" as we jumped to shore. Powdery white sand that would give Boracay a run for its money (well, I exaggerate, my friend said the ones in Boracay are finer but Kalanggaman came close).

The blue-green waters were son inviting and in no time we were swimming and jumping in its shores. Surprisingly, the water felt cool despite the heat from the midday sun. The sand bar was amazing. Here waves coming from different directions clashed and sent up waves and ripples. Because of the undertow, swimming is strictly prohibited near the sand bar.

Swimming is not the only activity one can engage in in Kalanggaman. You can go snorkeling on one side of the island and watch the teeming sea life below. Snorkeling and diving equipment are provided by the eco-torism office for a fee. Diving, however, is limited to those who hold valid diving licenses.

You may also watch the beautiful sunset which, regretfully we did not get to see as we went home by 3 pm.

As I said, the island is quite small, reason why the local government regulates its visitors to 300 at any given time. Due to its size, its ecological balance could easily be upset with an uncontrolled nukber of people coming to its shores. The present facilities of Kalangagaman blends well with its surroundings and is limited to the most basic of comforts. There is no electricity and water system is non-existent. You have to bring in your own barrels of water for drinking and bathing. There is a smattering of kiosks which are spaced well enough apart. In my opinion, to add more would be ill-advised.

Despite its semi-primitiveness and lack of creature comforts, Kalanggaman is definitely one place worth coming back too. In fact, we felt that one day was not enought and an overnight stay is recommended to truly enjoy to the fullest the island.

We all made a promise to return and one we are keen to keep with memories and pictures to spur us on.