Leyte and Samar's Delicacies

They say, "a way to a man's heart is through his stomach". Well, let me put a new twist to that and say: "the key to a people's soul is their food" (no literary ryhmes shnimes there, but it will do). Indeed, much can be said about a place through a sampling of their dinner table's fare. You have the very precise cuts and shapes of Japanese cuisine which says much of how meticulos the peole from the land of the rising sun are. And how can we forget the native land of sexy Marimar, Mexico with its hot and spicy tacos and nachos?

As promised, here is a post of delicacies and delectable offerings from the islands of Leyte and Samar. Just like Waraynons who are happy and joy-loving people, you will find that most of their food complement a favorite pastime, drinking sessions with the ever-present tuba (native drink taken from the juice of the still uopened coconut bud).

But first, a word of thanks to Mr. Bimbo Tan, OTOP Coordinator from DTI-Region VIII. I borrowed his collection of photographs taken by by Mr. Joe Barrera, likewise of the OTOP Program, documenting the different OTOP products in a 10 day road trip around the region. What follows is a veritable "movable" feast for the eyes. For the information of the many, OTOP stands for One-Town-One-Product, a program of the Department of Trade and Industry wherein a product of each town is picked, showcased and given technical assistance.


Binagol



To begin our food trip, let me start with a personal favorite the binagol, pride of Dagami. The fruit of the "tree of life" is one of its main ingredients. This is not surprising, as said in my earlier posts, the coconut is abundant in this parts of the country. My childhood is rife with the memories of this sticky concoction ensconced in a coconut shell which my paternal lola (she has since passed away) meticulously wrapped in boxes meant for my uncle in Manila.. She would always leave two for me and my sisters to chomp on during our summers by her place in Carigara. You may find these in sidewalks just below Gaisano at the Shopping Center but it is always wiser to buy from a suki or straight from the source in Dagami. Another just as tasty alternative are by-the-roadside-stalls in Calbiga, Samar where its version might just take the word Dagami from binagol and replace it with its own.

Chocolate moron

Bearing no resemblance to its English namesake, another Waray delicacy is the moron – sourced mostly from the town of Abuyog, Leyte. It is a also a dessert of coconut strips and as well as pilit, Philippine fancy rice. Just like most of its sweeter cousins, the moron is prepared using the giniling (milled) method. Not to sweet for it to be banned from the diabetic's table, it retains the flavor of coconut meat and the stickiness of its glutinous rice.

Sapsap

Going into the coast of Carigara Bay, you come along its favored method of preserving fish, drying their catch in the sun with a generous sprinkling of table salt. The market of this town is lined with stall selling all kinds of bulad. There is the sapsap and the dilis, to name a few. It is quite salty and not recommended for hypertensives. Nevertheless, compared to what's sold in the rest of the province, the dried fish of Carigara is still the least in salt content. It is to be expected as most of the people living here derive their livelihood from the bountiful harvests of the sea. Many balikbayans would love to bring this back home with them but it seems foreigners finds its smell offensive. Some even mistook the fumes of frying of bulad as that of a dead rat. But that’s another story. Really, perhaps its an acquired taste, but I do love the smell of bulad in the morning.




Pastillas

Apart from its bulad, Carigara is also known for its tasty pastillas made from pure carabao's milk. I am always reminded by my cousins in Cebu to bring along a pack when I come to visit them. I would end up buying two as I was tempted to finish one whole pack all by my lonesome. There are imitations, ones made from condensed milk and the city shops are littered with them. Its the carabao's milk that makes all the difference so if its not made from it, the taste is really different, it becomes too sweet. So you are sure of getting the real deal, a trip to Carigara would be worth it to buy your stock. My regular suki is Mana Lumen, you cannot be wrong with her pastillas as it is really made of carabao's milk. She lives and cooks her stuff at the Poblacion in Carigara. Just ask for her house from the pedicab driver.

As if the salty fried fish was not enough, I also have an addiction to sisi. This product of shells that sticks to rocks, which also goes by the handle "rock oysters", is one of my usual request when my friend goes home to Catbalogan. It is very cheap, Php50.00 a bottle. But you have to wash it very well as it is very salty. It serves as a very good appetizer and goes well with a dash of calamansi.

The taste of the islands is one unique experience, the different flavors a reflection of the town's unique culture and heritage. For inquiries on where to order, e-mail me at waray_ako_2008@yahoo.com so I can give you recommended stores and sources. (photos courtesy of Mr. Tan)