Zumarraga, the land of broken promises

Zumarraga wharf


Old man of the sea, he steered the boat we rode for Zumarraga


Lonely fisherman

Rock formation

Two weeks ago I was asked by my boss to represent him at an event in Zumarraga, Samar. I was quite excited to do this as I have never gone there before and in my research over the Internet I learned that the island-municipality was a naturally beautiful place.

We went via Babatngon, Leyte which is a half hour trip from Tacloban, after which we then rode a motorized boat owned by the family of the mayor which was docked at the Babtngon wharf. The latter's personal secretary welcomed us aboard who proved to be a very able and amiable host. Embarking,I immediately noticed two armed camouflaged men on the boat, perhaps an indication of the bitter political rivalry that is known to exits between the local leaders of Zumarraga and Daram, both island towns that are figuratively a stone's throw from each other.

The trip from Babatngon took almost two hours and along the way we were treated to scenic sights that our host pointed out and named for us. There was the rock stone formations similar to that of Marabut, Samar; white sand beaches that looked deserted except for a few huts, and the ruins of a Spanish garrison meant to deter marauders of the sea.

The waters leading to Zumarraga is a deep emerald green and this could be the reason why the town is sometimes referred to as an emerald of the sea. Yet despite its natural bounty, the municipality has fallen way, way behind in terms of economic progress and the people trapped in a bucolic and yet stale existence. It was once the center of fishing trade in the islands of Samar and Leyte supplying the needs of Tacloban and Catbalogan. But now the fishes are not as abundant as before, the result of enviromental neglect and abuse. Dynamite fishing was said to be rampant and destroyed most of the corals that served as the homes for most of the sea life.

Yet despite the sad tale of the fishes gone elsewhere, the beauty of Zumarraga remain and the smiles on the faces of its people optimistic. Perhaps one day, the promises given would be kept and the waters would teem again with the bounty of the sea.