Carigara's New Town Kitchenette,Home of the Tasty Humba

Its unassuming signage that has remained unchanged


The entrance

Today I went to Carigara, Leyte to take care of the papers of a client and had the chance to return to a place filled with my fondest memories as a child. While certain smells can bring a sharp tinge of nostalgia, nothing can bring back times past stronger and faster then the place itself.

My father hailed from this town and spent most his life there before going on to Manila to take up college and eventually law. When he married, settled down with Mama in Tacloban City and my sisters and I came one after the other, he sent us all to Carigara to spend our summers there. Days would be filled swimming in the bay that fronted Lola's house followed by rides up and down the poblacion in the "pot-pot" (also known as the pedicab which is a bicycle attached to a side car).

A constant in our itinerary then was the New Town Kitchenette down in Brgy. San Mateo, the place where we always bought our supply of the tasty pastillas. Apart from the carabao's milk candies, it offers a very delicious humba (click here for recipe) that has become the favorite of travelers who ply the Southern route of Leyte. It is owned and run by the Cañamaque sisters who got so busy in their "kitchenette" that marriage plans seems to have been forgotten. They have remained "single and unattached" devoting their time and energies to making the delicious dishes that their homey and rustic restaurant has became famous for. Their place is one of the reasons why Carigara has remained to this day the halfway point for lunch and breakfast of weary travelers

On this particular trip, my father and I had again this nemesis of a dish of all hypertensives (it swims in a plate of fats) and the taste has remained. It was just as I remembered it of summers past and just as tangy and with a "melt in your mouth" consistency. Of course, Papa had to double his dosage of Adalat just to make sure his indulgence would not cost him a day in the hospital (knock on wood).

The Waves of Calico-an Island

World-class facilities of Surf Camp


Infinity pool at the Surf Camp in Calico-an Island


Sometime in April last year, my friends and I went on a trip to Sulangan, a tiny islet at the tip of the province of Eastern Samar to visit the Church of St. Anthony de Padua. The twin images (one on each side of the altar) of the patron saint of desperate cases is known all over Eastern Visayas to grant the fervent wishes of its devotees and judging from the flocks that attends the masses held there, it is safe to surmise that many prayers has found answers after a call to St. Anthony for intercession.

We came on a Saturday and arrived just in time for the nine o'clock mass after departing from Tacloban City at 6:00 a.m., with a brief stop over at Jasmin Resort in the town of Marabut. I saw familiar faces from the city in an "out-of-town folks"-dominated church crowd. Like us, they all came with the hope of answered prayers whispered into the image of St. Anthony. Indeed, faith in a power greater than all of us is a most strong presence in the Filipino's way of life

As if to reward the piousness of the faithful who come to Sulangan, they are treated to an awesome sight of sea and surf as the island of Calico-an is just a 100 meter steel bridge away. In fact before you get to the pilgrim site, you pass by this white sand beach fringed town, a lovely welcome indeed for a spiritual journey for more than anything else, food for the soul was our main reason for coming and the beautiful sight an added bonus.

So just how beautiful is Calico-an? If your a surf lover just like most of the foreigners we saw there, the place where the Pacific rolls its waters is perfect for you. They say the best time for surfing is in the months of November, December and January where the waves are most high and just right for riding. But for a non-swimmer like me, it seemed intimidating even in on a warm month of summer. So me and my friends contented ourselves just listening to the ocean roar while having lunch in one of the restaurants that dot the seascape. Nothing like the sounds of the sea to relax and calm your senses. (During a second trip I made the following month, my family and I stayed at the cove-ringed part of the island where the lagoons allowed for some swimming, and yes, the sand was just as powdery white)

We earlier planned on having our lunch at the Surf Camp (a resort developed by the Aboitiz group) but it was closed at that time. However, the alternative, which was a resto-cum-small-resort, proved to be a blessing in disguise. Its prices were quite reasonable and the food filling, tasty and the straight-from-the-sea fresh. We (five of us) had kinilaw (ceviche) na tangigue, sinigang na lapu-lapu (grouper) , and adobong pusit (squid) all at a surprising P650.00 ($14.13) !!! I wish I could say the same for the room rates, at P3,000.00 ($65.21) per, its quite expensive. But then again with a view of the ocean and the sound of the waves, to quote that famous credit card company's line, the room's natural amenities are "priceless".

Tummies full, we started on the trip back home planning to go back as soon as schedules permitted (So far, it has remained just that, plans, with my friends that is)

So it was that a trip to the Church of St. Anthony de Padua came as a blessing in more ways than one.

Leyte and Samar's Delicacies

They say, "a way to a man's heart is through his stomach". Well, let me put a new twist to that and say: "the key to a people's soul is their food" (no literary ryhmes shnimes there, but it will do). Indeed, much can be said about a place through a sampling of their dinner table's fare. You have the very precise cuts and shapes of Japanese cuisine which says much of how meticulos the peole from the land of the rising sun are. And how can we forget the native land of sexy Marimar, Mexico with its hot and spicy tacos and nachos?

As promised, here is a post of delicacies and delectable offerings from the islands of Leyte and Samar. Just like Waraynons who are happy and joy-loving people, you will find that most of their food complement a favorite pastime, drinking sessions with the ever-present tuba (native drink taken from the juice of the still uopened coconut bud).

But first, a word of thanks to Mr. Bimbo Tan, OTOP Coordinator from DTI-Region VIII. I borrowed his collection of photographs taken by by Mr. Joe Barrera, likewise of the OTOP Program, documenting the different OTOP products in a 10 day road trip around the region. What follows is a veritable "movable" feast for the eyes. For the information of the many, OTOP stands for One-Town-One-Product, a program of the Department of Trade and Industry wherein a product of each town is picked, showcased and given technical assistance.


Binagol



To begin our food trip, let me start with a personal favorite the binagol, pride of Dagami. The fruit of the "tree of life" is one of its main ingredients. This is not surprising, as said in my earlier posts, the coconut is abundant in this parts of the country. My childhood is rife with the memories of this sticky concoction ensconced in a coconut shell which my paternal lola (she has since passed away) meticulously wrapped in boxes meant for my uncle in Manila.. She would always leave two for me and my sisters to chomp on during our summers by her place in Carigara. You may find these in sidewalks just below Gaisano at the Shopping Center but it is always wiser to buy from a suki or straight from the source in Dagami. Another just as tasty alternative are by-the-roadside-stalls in Calbiga, Samar where its version might just take the word Dagami from binagol and replace it with its own.

Chocolate moron

Bearing no resemblance to its English namesake, another Waray delicacy is the moron – sourced mostly from the town of Abuyog, Leyte. It is a also a dessert of coconut strips and as well as pilit, Philippine fancy rice. Just like most of its sweeter cousins, the moron is prepared using the giniling (milled) method. Not to sweet for it to be banned from the diabetic's table, it retains the flavor of coconut meat and the stickiness of its glutinous rice.

Sapsap

Going into the coast of Carigara Bay, you come along its favored method of preserving fish, drying their catch in the sun with a generous sprinkling of table salt. The market of this town is lined with stall selling all kinds of bulad. There is the sapsap and the dilis, to name a few. It is quite salty and not recommended for hypertensives. Nevertheless, compared to what's sold in the rest of the province, the dried fish of Carigara is still the least in salt content. It is to be expected as most of the people living here derive their livelihood from the bountiful harvests of the sea. Many balikbayans would love to bring this back home with them but it seems foreigners finds its smell offensive. Some even mistook the fumes of frying of bulad as that of a dead rat. But that’s another story. Really, perhaps its an acquired taste, but I do love the smell of bulad in the morning.




Pastillas

Apart from its bulad, Carigara is also known for its tasty pastillas made from pure carabao's milk. I am always reminded by my cousins in Cebu to bring along a pack when I come to visit them. I would end up buying two as I was tempted to finish one whole pack all by my lonesome. There are imitations, ones made from condensed milk and the city shops are littered with them. Its the carabao's milk that makes all the difference so if its not made from it, the taste is really different, it becomes too sweet. So you are sure of getting the real deal, a trip to Carigara would be worth it to buy your stock. My regular suki is Mana Lumen, you cannot be wrong with her pastillas as it is really made of carabao's milk. She lives and cooks her stuff at the Poblacion in Carigara. Just ask for her house from the pedicab driver.

As if the salty fried fish was not enough, I also have an addiction to sisi. This product of shells that sticks to rocks, which also goes by the handle "rock oysters", is one of my usual request when my friend goes home to Catbalogan. It is very cheap, Php50.00 a bottle. But you have to wash it very well as it is very salty. It serves as a very good appetizer and goes well with a dash of calamansi.

The taste of the islands is one unique experience, the different flavors a reflection of the town's unique culture and heritage. For inquiries on where to order, e-mail me at waray_ako_2008@yahoo.com so I can give you recommended stores and sources. (photos courtesy of Mr. Tan)

International Foodie Show Goes to Manila

I just wanted to contribute my two centavos worth of national pride. How? By telling (informing is more apt, kinda lazy today to make a real full-length post about it) you about the Philippine episode of of Anthony Bourdain's cooking show, "No Reservations". Yup, your right, a whole hour is dedicated to showcasing some "gritty but tasty" (his words) Filipino food fare. Perhaps it can entice some of you to make that plannned trip for home if only to savor true-blue Filipino dishes again. One can catch his show on the Travel Channel and its Philippine episode premiered last February 16 in the US. Too bad, cable's not available at my parent's house (some household oversight) so I would have to look for a link on the Internet. Anyway, to read more about it, click here and drool :-).