Carigara's New Town Kitchenette,Home of the Tasty Humba

Its unassuming signage that has remained unchanged


The entrance

Today I went to Carigara, Leyte to take care of the papers of a client and had the chance to return to a place filled with my fondest memories as a child. While certain smells can bring a sharp tinge of nostalgia, nothing can bring back times past stronger and faster then the place itself.

My father hailed from this town and spent most his life there before going on to Manila to take up college and eventually law. When he married, settled down with Mama in Tacloban City and my sisters and I came one after the other, he sent us all to Carigara to spend our summers there. Days would be filled swimming in the bay that fronted Lola's house followed by rides up and down the poblacion in the "pot-pot" (also known as the pedicab which is a bicycle attached to a side car).

A constant in our itinerary then was the New Town Kitchenette down in Brgy. San Mateo, the place where we always bought our supply of the tasty pastillas. Apart from the carabao's milk candies, it offers a very delicious humba (click here for recipe) that has become the favorite of travelers who ply the Southern route of Leyte. It is owned and run by the Cañamaque sisters who got so busy in their "kitchenette" that marriage plans seems to have been forgotten. They have remained "single and unattached" devoting their time and energies to making the delicious dishes that their homey and rustic restaurant has became famous for. Their place is one of the reasons why Carigara has remained to this day the halfway point for lunch and breakfast of weary travelers

On this particular trip, my father and I had again this nemesis of a dish of all hypertensives (it swims in a plate of fats) and the taste has remained. It was just as I remembered it of summers past and just as tangy and with a "melt in your mouth" consistency. Of course, Papa had to double his dosage of Adalat just to make sure his indulgence would not cost him a day in the hospital (knock on wood).

Zumarraga, the land of broken promises

Zumarraga wharf


Old man of the sea, he steered the boat we rode for Zumarraga


Lonely fisherman

Rock formation

Two weeks ago I was asked by my boss to represent him at an event in Zumarraga, Samar. I was quite excited to do this as I have never gone there before and in my research over the Internet I learned that the island-municipality was a naturally beautiful place.

We went via Babatngon, Leyte which is a half hour trip from Tacloban, after which we then rode a motorized boat owned by the family of the mayor which was docked at the Babtngon wharf. The latter's personal secretary welcomed us aboard who proved to be a very able and amiable host. Embarking,I immediately noticed two armed camouflaged men on the boat, perhaps an indication of the bitter political rivalry that is known to exits between the local leaders of Zumarraga and Daram, both island towns that are figuratively a stone's throw from each other.

The trip from Babatngon took almost two hours and along the way we were treated to scenic sights that our host pointed out and named for us. There was the rock stone formations similar to that of Marabut, Samar; white sand beaches that looked deserted except for a few huts, and the ruins of a Spanish garrison meant to deter marauders of the sea.

The waters leading to Zumarraga is a deep emerald green and this could be the reason why the town is sometimes referred to as an emerald of the sea. Yet despite its natural bounty, the municipality has fallen way, way behind in terms of economic progress and the people trapped in a bucolic and yet stale existence. It was once the center of fishing trade in the islands of Samar and Leyte supplying the needs of Tacloban and Catbalogan. But now the fishes are not as abundant as before, the result of enviromental neglect and abuse. Dynamite fishing was said to be rampant and destroyed most of the corals that served as the homes for most of the sea life.

Yet despite the sad tale of the fishes gone elsewhere, the beauty of Zumarraga remain and the smiles on the faces of its people optimistic. Perhaps one day, the promises given would be kept and the waters would teem again with the bounty of the sea.

News from Home - the first

(Photo source)

When I started this blog I wanted it to be something for all the Waray-warays out there - "out" there being the big, big world of Cyberspace-. I did not consciously have the the overseas Waray as the target readers, just anyone who had the distinction of having ties and roots in the two islands of Samar and Leyte, of course, Biliran too, although they speak a different dialect altogether. But somewhere along the way, most of the feedback I got was from Waraynons now-based abroad. In their comments and e-mails I could clearly discern a deep longing for home and anything that reminds them of it. My entry on the flavors of Leyte and Samar had a Waraynon transplanted to the land of kiwis drooling as he recalled breakfasts of sapsap (native dried fish) dipped in coconut vinegar and a Fil-Am from Florida who stumbled upon this blog through Google search commented on how my teaser on the alat (basket carried on the back filled with fruits and vegetables) brought back memories of a childhood when the basket represented a means of livelihood. Homesickness indeed finds its cure in the familiar and I have hoped that in my own little way that through this blog I have helped eased that longing.

So it is with the Waraynon abroad in mind that I have started a regular feature of this blog, "News from Home" which will carry tidbits of news which will keep everyone abreast of development here in Waray country. I plan to have it on a bi-weekly basis but bear with me if I can't really keep up with that schedule (still got a day job to do). I will try to make the most of my free time and be a"Korinna Sanchez" on the side (minus of course her logistics). Now if I can only perfect that multitasking bit...

The Waves of Calico-an Island

World-class facilities of Surf Camp


Infinity pool at the Surf Camp in Calico-an Island


Sometime in April last year, my friends and I went on a trip to Sulangan, a tiny islet at the tip of the province of Eastern Samar to visit the Church of St. Anthony de Padua. The twin images (one on each side of the altar) of the patron saint of desperate cases is known all over Eastern Visayas to grant the fervent wishes of its devotees and judging from the flocks that attends the masses held there, it is safe to surmise that many prayers has found answers after a call to St. Anthony for intercession.

We came on a Saturday and arrived just in time for the nine o'clock mass after departing from Tacloban City at 6:00 a.m., with a brief stop over at Jasmin Resort in the town of Marabut. I saw familiar faces from the city in an "out-of-town folks"-dominated church crowd. Like us, they all came with the hope of answered prayers whispered into the image of St. Anthony. Indeed, faith in a power greater than all of us is a most strong presence in the Filipino's way of life

As if to reward the piousness of the faithful who come to Sulangan, they are treated to an awesome sight of sea and surf as the island of Calico-an is just a 100 meter steel bridge away. In fact before you get to the pilgrim site, you pass by this white sand beach fringed town, a lovely welcome indeed for a spiritual journey for more than anything else, food for the soul was our main reason for coming and the beautiful sight an added bonus.

So just how beautiful is Calico-an? If your a surf lover just like most of the foreigners we saw there, the place where the Pacific rolls its waters is perfect for you. They say the best time for surfing is in the months of November, December and January where the waves are most high and just right for riding. But for a non-swimmer like me, it seemed intimidating even in on a warm month of summer. So me and my friends contented ourselves just listening to the ocean roar while having lunch in one of the restaurants that dot the seascape. Nothing like the sounds of the sea to relax and calm your senses. (During a second trip I made the following month, my family and I stayed at the cove-ringed part of the island where the lagoons allowed for some swimming, and yes, the sand was just as powdery white)

We earlier planned on having our lunch at the Surf Camp (a resort developed by the Aboitiz group) but it was closed at that time. However, the alternative, which was a resto-cum-small-resort, proved to be a blessing in disguise. Its prices were quite reasonable and the food filling, tasty and the straight-from-the-sea fresh. We (five of us) had kinilaw (ceviche) na tangigue, sinigang na lapu-lapu (grouper) , and adobong pusit (squid) all at a surprising P650.00 ($14.13) !!! I wish I could say the same for the room rates, at P3,000.00 ($65.21) per, its quite expensive. But then again with a view of the ocean and the sound of the waves, to quote that famous credit card company's line, the room's natural amenities are "priceless".

Tummies full, we started on the trip back home planning to go back as soon as schedules permitted (So far, it has remained just that, plans, with my friends that is)

So it was that a trip to the Church of St. Anthony de Padua came as a blessing in more ways than one.

December Weddings

Apart from June, December has always been a favorite month for weddings here in the Philippines. It is most practical as it is the time of the year when most Filipinos come home for the longest Christmas season celebrated in the whole world and the future bride and groom are most assured that most of their loved ones from all over would be present to witness this memorable event in their lives.

Truly well-planned weddings would not be complete without hiring a professional photographer to cover and immortalize this, hopefully, once in a lifetime milestone. Here in Leyte, we have at par, if not better wedding lensmen who capture your wedding moments with an artistic eye and an instinct of the perfect shot.

Too bad I discovered this after my own wedding, for I would have loved having my wedding portrait done as beautifully as this:


(Photo courtesy of D. Martinez)

Beautiful Baguio, Part two

The last time I visited Baguio was in 2000, and just like the first time I went there which was way back in 1995, it also fell on a summer. So when I learned that I was going to the Philippines famed city of pines, I was a bit excited as it was scheduled in December. You might wonder why I was so worked up on a December Baguio trip when the place is also known as the "summer capital" of the country. It because on all my previous trips, the only time I really felt like donning a heavy sweater was in the late afternoons and evenings. Ergo, Baguio was not that cold in the day and what's the point of going there if the weather is just like here in the lowlands? I was curious to experience real cold weather, to feel an almost western hemispher coolness which could only be experienced there in December.

Apart from the temperate weather, I was also eager to see again the beautiful flowers that could only abound in low temperatures. Poinsettas by the roadside as well as sunflowers jutting out from crevices in the concrete was a common sight as my bus weaved its way up the mountains. At some point in our ascent, everything was covered in heavy fog and you could not see anything below the road, not the houses, trees or any vegetation. Truly, this is how it feels like to be up in the clouds.

More than just the fine weather and tourist spots such as the Grotto, the Mansion, Camp John Hay, Wright Park, Philippine Military Academy (the biggest military school in the country whose graduates have gone on to become leaders in the military), and Mines View Park, Baguio City is a place full of warm and friendly people where everyone is literally a trained tourist guide. Everyone I asked for directions were always most helpful and added tidbits or two that would help us in our stay (e.g. the best time to shop at the ukay-ukay stalls). Speaking of ukay-ukay, the city's claim to being the secondhand goods capital of the Philippines is well-deserved. As with all bargain hunts, you just have to be patient and perservering as you wade through clothes, shoes, and bags lumped in heaps or hung by hangers in the different stalls in coming upon valuable finds that look almost brand new and belong to world renowned labels like Gap, Nike, and Burberry. After going through so many stall and exiting empty handed, we soon came upon a corner one and hit pay dirt. The ukay shop had just replenished its stocks and it was full of really fine items. I found so many blouses and long sleeved polos that hardly had any hint of being used and would have taken them all had they fit me. Sadly, only two of the blouses I really liked felt comfortable enough to wear which I immediately bought. At Php150.00 apiece, it truly was a bargain.

Unfortunately for my group, the seminar ended quite late in the afternoon, so we were only able to visit a few of the sights in Baguio. We went by the Grotto where we prayed before the image of Jesus and the Virgin Mary. We also bought pasalubong at the Strawberry Farm. After that it was back to the hotel to prepare for an early morning trip back to Manila the following day.

A Trip Down Samar Country

I adore new places, ergo, I love to travel, with a catch...it has to be someplace which can be reached by plane or if not, by land not exceeding a travel time of one hour and a half (just the distance from work to the hubby's place). Blame it on the nausea that grips me when I'm on a moving vehicle for more than two hours. Yet despite puke bags and Bonamine becoming must-haves on my travelling bag, I managed to go to places that had me sitting on a van for hours on end all for the love of travel...and work. It was for the latter that I crossed the San Juanico bridge for the nth time to deliver a lecture about aged citizens and their rights down in Borongan City, capital of the Estehanons province.

I travelled alone and without any distractions which is why when the bus I was riding crossed the San Juanico bridge, I was able to fully appreciate the beauty of this magnificent steel structure. It remains to be one of the Imeldific's finest contribution to the islands of Leyte and Samar, something that has been greatly overshadowed by her world famous shoe collection. Said to be the longest in the Philippines, the bridge was constructed in 1969 during the Marcos regime and was finished in 1973. It connected the islands of Leyte and Samar cutting travel time to both significantly and built a gateway to Waray country for inter-island travel. I clicked away at the beautiful sights with my Nokia N70, my digital camera having been sidelined when my daughter decided to "cook" it for her teddy bear adding her Papa's cologne for spice and destroying the LCD in the process (aren't three year olds just cute?).

This bridge has seen stunts (an actor is said to have jumped from one of its steels posts), been home to urban legends (children were rumored to have been sacrificed to assuage the spirits of the seas angry from the intrusion) and has even become a favorite shooting spot for wedding albums. Together with the islets that dot the seascape, the San Juanico is indeed one picturesque view, one that makes me proud to be Waray.

By the way, saw some great pictures of this famous Waray landmark on a fellow blogger's site. You may visit it for more clearer shots of the famed bridge.

My Nokia can only do so much.

A Funny Felllow Called Pete

I'm now on panic mode. Was lying down last night and happened to look down below. Guess what I saw, just my tummy and nothing else!!!!!! Golly mia, mama mia, am I turning into Pete, the funny guy of my grade years?

For those of you out there who had the lucky break to have your elementary years in this then laboratory school, now university in the city known for its, ahem, quality education, and you had Miss C. as your teacher in Grade One, then you have an inkling as to who Pete is. (Oh,oh, this post is getting warm as to my real identity).

For those in the dark, let me introduce you to Pete...

Pete is a funny fellow.
Pete, who's Pete?
He's a boy so fat that he CAN'T SEE HIS FEET AT ALL
My, he's so fat.
And you know, he eats five meals a day.
Five meals a day???....

For the rest about Pete, view in the comments section from those in the know (calling all you you-know-who-I'm-talking-about, please answer)

The Banig of My Childhood

It was no thicker than two cartolinas and measured two by three meters. Yet it was big enough to contain the memories of a languid childhood and siestas in the afternoon.


A colorful banig from Basey, Samar

Many years back when we were still between the ages of nine and thirteen, every afternoon on school breaks, my sisters and I gathered in the sala and set aside the sofas to spread out the banig on the floor. We packed our then still slim bodies across it and tried to catch the sleep that proved to be elusive in the wake of anticipation of the playtime that was to come. So we closed our eyes and pretended to sleep when Mama would come around to check or else forfeit the snack that was to be our reward for taking the afternoon nap.

Then on weekends, my cousins, aunts and uncles on my mother's side would converge at lola's house and the result would be one fun ruckus. We slept on the floor, on banigs rolled out in the sala while the adults played mahjong.

We bought the banig from from the stalls lining the street immediately after the post office building, just below the Gran Hotel that never was. There you would find(and still find) all sorts of banig (sleeping mats) made from the "tikog", a reed plant that thrives in swampy areas. There were the colorful ones which are more expensive and then there were the simple mats which could only be rolled as it was too thick to fold unlike its more colorful sisters. All these mats were sourced from the small coastal town of Basey, Samar, the place where the paraglaras (women weavers) make the banig beneath its cool caves.

The banig we used to sleep on many years back has long been tucked away and is now frayed at the edges. It has since been replaced by the new one I bought, and like in my earlier years, my daughter now sleeps in it for afternoon naps after being lulled to a slumber by the tv and a bottle of "susoy" (milk). The banig of my childhood has now come full circle.

(Photo courtesy of Bimbo Tan of OTOP Phils.)